Demarcation Diaries
4 September 2001
We are in the heart of darkness country now. There's hardly any
traffic on the river. A growl and a shudder run through the hull
as the Commandante ploughs into a submerged log. The engine chugs
as Flavio the avuncular skipper reduces the speed.
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The vibration changes, the propeller has been damaged and
must be replaced. We have two spares with us which can be
changed with a quick dive. Steve volunteers to help change
the propeller, but it's a fairly routine procedure here. |
There was heavy rain again yesterday after a night ashore in
Caurauri. The locals are spectacularly friendly and some crew
had to be dragged back to the ship at three in the morning. Even
on a Sunday night this small town's two nightclubs were heaving.
We moved fuel drums around from a floating FUNAI (the Federal
Government agency in charge of indigenous issues in Brazil) platform.
Huge butterflies settled on the lids. From another ship, someone
shoots a large alligator, predator fear says Steve disapprovingly.
The sunset was vivid, like magma flowing through clouds. The
night was deliciously cold with mist rising from the forest in
the morning. The cooks made fresh bread. They were talking about
leaving because of homesickness but when Manuel started to make
arrangements for their replacement in Caurauri they changed their
minds. They're very good cooks and everyone's looking a bit plumper
after a week onboard. I can't see that lasting once the forest
work starts though.
Two more days aboard if the propeller change goes well then it's
time to set up the first camp. We pulled up at a sandy beach which
would be covered in sunbathers in Europe but hosts only piums
here. There's a touch of ship fever and it'll be good to start
work on the land soon.
The red team will work towards the south east for six weeks.
This work shouldn't have to be done by subsistence living Indians
and non-governmental organisations. Vast amounts of international
tax payers' money were allocated to implement the Biodiversity
Agreements at the Rio Earth Summit in 1992, but little has been
done to protect cultures and species in remote areas. Where did
the money go?
Tschau
Ian
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