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Demarcation Diaries • Amazon Updates      

Demarcation Diaries

8 September 2001

Position: Mouth of the Xerua River
Time: 3:30 p.m., Manaus Time, East Coast US
Weather: Here comes another storm!

We have welcomed our many new members of our project on board today. They arrived all together, 3 members of the Deni tribe, two GPS position experts, a reporter and cameraman from Global Manaus, the Manaus news TV station, Nilo, our Greenpeace Deni expert and coordinator, and Janine, the final member of my team that is going to tackle the Xerua West part of our demarcation. It is great to have new people on board. About 30 minutes after they all arrived, our main logistics man, Manuel, left for some responsibilities he has in Manaus, for three days. This leaves us all looking and feeling out a bit of a new system, since Manuel has been the lead translator, coordinator, logistics guy for everything up until now. Our introduction meeting went well, it is great to see everyone introduce themselves, and watch everyone else take in all the new faces, names, and origins. We immediately split ourselves up, two groups heading out to the demarcation points to begin scouting for pictures, locating land points, getting used to the route. I've seen the aluminum boats heading back and forth several times to get more gear, check in, and go back. Kind of like a lone bee heading back and forth to the hive. Work is happening!

We have gotten used to the storms coming in suddenly here. Already, three people have announced that a storm is coming. Most of the time, we need to drop the side tarps to protect all of our hammocks from the driving rain, and it never rains softly here. As the storm approaches, the two teams just returned to announce that the first sign, signifying the initial point of the demarcation, has been posted. From this central point, our two teams will head off into two directions, one more to the west, one to the east. It is great to see the boats full of truly international crews. As I watch them go out and return, I see Swedes sitting next to Deni sitting next to Brasilians. I see Dutch sitting next to Amazonians sitting next to Deni. And, they return having put down the first mark together. In my opinion, there are no followers here, only leaders, people who want to see something get done.

A word about the wildlife besides the bugs. The area is full of butterflies, all different colors, landing on everyone as if to say welcome. I guess I could say that they do not seem to be shy, flying near the boats, near Rosa as she washes clothes, colors of blues, yellows, oranges, blacks, whites. When we mix these visitors with the frequent pink dolphins jumping near us, it can sometimes seem like a fairy-tale scene. And, it is that, more often than not.

As we fall asleep this night, the boat is full. 8 new hammocks on the lower deck, 8 new hammocks on the 2nd deck, a total of about 30 people on board now. It is a good energy on the ship. We ended the evening with a group talk about our plans for tomorrow, and our plans for the next two or three days. We translate everything into English from Portuguese. The Deni have spent the last years learning Portuguese, and many speak well now. Some of the men clear things up to each other in the Deni language. They all are obviously intense, serious about their work coming up, but easy- going with all of us. This afternoon, a football game that lasted at least a couple of hours put everyone together for the first time.

There are many small logistics to work out, the attitudes are really great, so tomorrow will come early, we get started at 7 a.m. - breakfast. Radio training as well as demarcation scouting will happen tomorrow.

The stars are bright, and there are eyes in the darkness, watching us. We all feel safe.

From the land of bright stars and animals in the night, Tchau,
-Bryan



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