Demarcation Diaries
10 September 2001
This morning brought a few memorable moments. Right after breakfast
I spotted what I believe to be an eagle perched on a tree. I grabbed
a camera and started to move in on the animal. I got fairly close
and got some decent shots.
On my way back to the boat Tim called me from the top deck and
pointed. I noticed an adult Jacare in the water, about ten meters
from the shore. It was making its way up river at the slow, majestic
pace that is so characteristic of them.
I moved closer to the shore and found myself facing a dilemma.
Since I travel fairly light on this trip, I don't carry a lens
longer than 400mm. That means I have to get fairly close to get
those frame-filling pictures. I stopped at about two meters from
the shore, ending up with about 14 meters between me and the alligator.
The photographer in me wanted to move in closer at this point,
but I am not at all sure how fast Jacares can move in and out
of water, or how long their stamina allows them to pursue. Can
you outrun an alligator on land? I have no idea but I am reluctant
to bet my life on my ability to do so.
I threw a glance back at the boat, unwilling to look away from
the predator for too long. Some Deni and local crew were watching
me.
I figured that they were thinking one out of two things. Either
'What a sissy' for moving so carefully or 'What an idiot' for
me moving so close. I pondered this for a moment and came to the
conclusion that until I learn more about the true nature and speed
of a Jacare, I'd rather be a living sissy than a dead idiot.
This was the first day of the real demarcation work. The rainforest
is an awesome piece of biodiversity and it is very loud. There
are a multitude of sounds ranging from low frequency murmurs to
high pitched bird chatter and the sheer number of species of bugs,
birds and mammals is simply stunning.
The jungle really isn't scary at all, it is a living place where
you need to respect the other life forms in your path but it is
friendly in its bottomless diversity.
Finally, in the evening, nature offered a spectacular light show.
We have seen several impressive thunderstorms on the way here,
but this one really packed a punch. The grand finale included
the loudest and brightest lighting strike I've ever experienced,
less than a kilometre away. Ian, Janine and I sat for a long time
on the top deck and watched the spectacle.
In this update I've tried to give you a feeling for all the little
dramas and events that take place during a single day here, every
day. We all know the rational reasons to save the rainforest,
like the oxygen production, the climate effects, the biodiversity
and the cure for cancer that might be waiting behind the next
bush, but I will give you another one.
This place deserves to be preserved simply because of its ability
to astonish us, challenge us, entertain us, charm us, make us
stop in our tracks and turn our faces and hearts towards the Gods.
Steve
Find out about the different
volunteers on the demarcation project.
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