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Demarcation Diaries • Amazon Updates      

Demarcation Diaries

26 September 2001

Team A having lunch Right now I am looking past a bee and thousands of flies. I am covered with them, sitting here next to the solar panels, on two giant green leaves, in the sunlight, waiting for some giant animal to walk out here and disturb my solitude. I have heard a few crashes already.

I have a mosquito-proof, bug-proof coat on, but this is verging on misery. Flies all over my hands and legs, the constant buzzing sound is similar to an electrical transformer outside your room at night, buzzzzzzzzzz. In this same spot, two pairs of macaws have flown over, screaming their Hellos to me in voices that are not exactly sweet. I think it is more like screeching than singing.

We slept our 7th night last night in camp number 3. I am still amazed how fast the Deni can put up a tent that sleeps 13 hammocks. Last night, they decided to disturb some wood that was full of black and red ants, so we all spent a good amount of time debugging our hammocks before sleep. I guess it is funny to listen to everyone slapping and waiting, slapping and waiting in the dark for the next crawling critter to go across their arms, legs, faces. This lasts for hours, we fall asleep to these sounds.

Morning comes early out here, the Deni are up and joking and building a fire a little before 6 each morning. We have been getting up at 6:30 to start the cooking for breakfast, usually some type of sausage to go with their coffee. I set up the radio this morning, we have been having problems keeping our batteries charged, it is one reason I am sitting watching things happen here today, to make sure we get the charge we need.

I think a good indicator of what it is like here is watching our visitors come and go. When they first land from the helicopter, they are clean, dry and smiling. Then I watch in only minutes as they start to sweat, their clothes get wet, bugs start to come, and they are soon slapping and looking for some kind of shelter... there is none, no where to look, only places to go where there are more insects, more heat.

As for those of us who stay, we are happy with a spring full of water. We took baths yesterday for the first time in three days, the camp is full of drying clothes hanging on every available branch.

The demarcation slogs along. 800 meters here, 400 meters there, our rhythm is slowly developing. Yesterday's track was full of tree roots, small muddy streams, vines everywhere. To swing a machete all day is very calming for the workers, it gives them a goal each day, and to walk along the track each morning that you cleared the day before gives a real feeling of accomplishment, like the end can be reached if we keep getting up, keep going out. If you have ever made a trail, anywhere, jogging, or riding a bike, or walking around a lake, you know the feeling you have, that the trail leads somewhere. I imagine that for the Deni, this trail leads to their future. So, we all keep getting up and keep going out.

From the trail,

Bryan
(Team A)

 

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