Expedition: Amazon 2001 Greenpeace logo
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Amazon Updates •  Demarcation Diaries    

Amazon Updates

25 September 2001

This morning we visited the largest saw mill in the town of Jutai. Although the manager of the mill said that the wood comes from their forest management plan area, it is not possible since the area is another 200 kilometres down river, so all of the wood is probably illegal.

Most of the sawn wood they produce is consumed locally and a small portion is sent down river to Manaus.

The coordinators of the reserve we visited yesterday said they saw two large log rafts go down river past their villages this year. Most likely these rafts ended up in saw mills like this one in Jutai. Marcelo, our Amazon campaigner on board, talked with the mill manager and told him that it is important to work with the communities on the reserve who can supply wood that is harvested in an ecological manner.

The mill manager said that he wants only to work and he is not a bad guy. He said that it is very difficult to run a completely legal operation. It is a small operation, but it is typical of the small operations in the Amazon. Some of the illegal wood may come from the reserve area or indigineous lands near by, and is but one more reason in support of the need for a protected reserve.

We also had an open boat all day for people of Jutai to visit the ship, find out more about Greenpeace and the Amazon campaign. Our visitors were mostly children, with classes from the school arriving every half an hour. Some children came to visit a few times, others didn't leave all day.

They were all over the ship like ants on a floating leaf in the flooded forest. Many children paddled out in dug out canoes, I think some even swam out to the ship. They climbed over every inch of the ship, from stem to stern, up the painting lines and on top of the bridge, peeking in every window along the way.

By afternoon they were diving off of zodiacs, even off the bow. This made some of us very nervous, but the children here are like fish. The river is part of their lives, and swimming is as natural to them as walking.

One young girl from one of the classes tried to speak with me and we quickly established that I don't speak very much Portuguese and she doesn't speak very much English. Then she said a few words to me in English and I replied with a few words of Portuguese. She was very excited that I had understood her. She tried to speak a few more words of English and again when I understood, her and her friend were very excited. The next thing I knew she had out her notebook and I was helping her with her English homework.

A few hundred children came through the ship during the day and their curiosity and playfulness was completely contagious. Luca, Sandra and Luciana borrowed one of the dug out canoes from the children and paddled around the harbour, Wally swam to shore and Sandra was diving off the zodiac backwards with the rest of the children.


As the last boats of children were leaving, many grey and pink river dolphins appeared around the boat, some jumping out of the water. I still can't help but laugh when I see a pink river dolphin. They really are very pink, and it is no wonder we don't often see them jumping from the water, they must be slightly embarrassed about their appearance. Even pink, they are an incredible sight to see, but very difficult to get a photo of.

By late in the afternoon, after all of the children went back to shore, the temptation was too much and almost all of the crew was in the water, swinging off the painting ropes, diving off the bow, doing all the things we had nervously watched the children doing earlier in the day.

Some of the children on shore saw us swimming and came out in their canoe. I few of us grabbed onto the canoe when it appeared, and we quickly learnt it wouldn't take much more weight than the children as it filled up with water. Luckily it would still float and the children have a very simple method of rocking the boat back and forth to get the water out.

The children stayed and swam with us for a little while before heading back to shore. The water temperature was perfect and we played like children in the water until sunset and it was time to go in for dinner.

Tracy


Photograph by Captain Pete of some of his motley crew.


 

 

 

 

 

 

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