Expedition: Amazon 2001 Greenpeace logo
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Amazon Updates •  Demarcation Diaries    

Amazon Updates

27 September 2001

Today we anchored off the town of Coari at 0230 having made good speed with the current down the river Salimões from Tefe. It was impossible, in the darkness, to safely navigate the narrow entrance to the lagoon which fronts the town and we anchored when the echo sounder (which shows us the depth of water underneath the ship) showed 10 meters.

The river changes from season to season and the main channels and depths shown on the charts are not always accurate. We have two river pilots on board and they depend on up to date information from the survey vessel that operates on the river.

At this time of year, near the end of the dry season, sand banks and shoals shift and reconfigure. Our draft, which is the depth of the ship under the water (from the waterline to the keel), is nearly five meters, and we have to take care.

Our present latitude is four degrees south. The Autumn Equinox occured at midnight GMT on 22nd and the sun was then directly overhead on the equator. This means that now we have exactly 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness. The sun rises due east at 0600, and it sets due west at 1800. At noon we have no shadows; daylight to darkness (and vice versa) takes about 45 minutes.

During the watch after anchoring this morning, I watched the day come alive. As it started to get light, and eventually the top edge of the sun appeared over the trees astern of the ship, the local fishermen in their canoes and the river dolphins hunted together where the waters of the main river and the outflow from the lagoon meet.

The divide between the brown Solimões river and the darker lagoon water is quite marked and distinct. It was so quiet, the dolphins as they surfaced and dived sounded almost like humans coughing, and the voices of the fishermen carried clearly across the water. I could hear the birds too on the river bank, circling the fish. A boat came past with a dog that barked at the dolphins.

It was already dark as we left the anchorage at 1900. The half moon over the southern bank of the river masked most of the stars except for the constellation of Scorpio and Mars bright to the east in Sagittarius.

We will arrive back in Manaus at midday on Friday and I'll know I've been priviledged to be here.

Pete
Captain

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

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