Arctic Diary





July 27, 1997

Ingrid Gordon, Arctic Base Camp

Today we celebrate one full week of living on Egg Island in the Arctic Ocean. Weather wise, we are at the moment hunkered down in 15 mph winds and temperatures around freezing. Ah, summer in the arctic. The range is amazing with each wind shift, a southerly brings warmer air and hordes of the most tenacious moquitoes you have ever met, and a northerly brings the air straight off the pack ice with a biting chill. When the wind dies, the temperature soars to 70 degrees and we go skinny dipping in the Arctic ocean, and the mosquitoes who have been hiding behind driftwood, rocks, or in our tents, reappear and have a feast.

Sitting here amongst the oil industrial infrastructure, I have a very strange deja-vu. Maintaining a presence and bearing witness here on Egg Island is strikingly similar to being at the 12-mile zone of the French nuclear test site. Except for here in the Arctic Ocean, it is the arrogance of the oil industry that reigns instead of the French military.. The Prudhoe Bay/Deadhorse area is a classic example of a one-industry town. There was no village of Deadhorse before they discovered oil here. Now in 1997 about 800 workers basically maintain the drill rigs, pump stations, and pipeline. At the height of construction 20 years ago, there were 20,000 people up here. I've had the opportunity twice to fly over the Prudhoe Bay area and see the industrial scars that deface this hardy yet fragile environment. For instance, earth moving equipment driving over the tundra 20 years ago leaving huge tire tracks which now have filled in with water to become parallel creeks which will remain forever.

As an American, I know that we are a nation addicted to oil. We sure like to drive our cars and burn those fossil fuels. But sitting here on this glorified sand bar in this fragile environment in the shadow of the Arco MOBILE! drilling rig that is just itching to begin drilling right on top of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, I think we as caring people need to rethink our ways. Climate change is a real things and we are beginning to feel its ugly effects. The whole oil infrastructure here on the north slope of Alaska, so far, is onshore. Both BP (British Petroleum) and Arco have big plans to start drilling offshore and build connector pipelines. That is what we are here to bear witness to and actively protest.

I remember when I was a kid, and our teacher was getting us to sign petitions to stop the construction of the pipeline from Prudhoe Bay to Valdez. At the time, I didn't realize just how enormous the whole operation was. Now the oil industry puts out coloring books that say things like the caribou like to rub up against the pipeline for warmth. Oil exploration and procurement is not and never will be a clean operation. We need companies like Arco and BP to put forth as much effort and expeniture into clean energy like SOLAR as they put into more oil exploration. The fragile Arctic environment on and offshore would breath a collective sigh of relief.

Still bearing witness here at the Arctic Base Camp on Egg Island, just west of Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, USA.

Ingrid