From Martina Krueger, Campaigner.
23rd January 1997
We woke early to the sound of a bell from the bridge
alerting us to the first whales of the trip. Some of us
leapt out of bed, others continued to slumber. Those of us
who raced upstairs were rewarded with the sight of three
humpback whales and a pod of orcas, as well as fleeting
glimpses of penguins on their morning hunt for food. The
camera crews on board were in a frenzy to capture the images
of Antarctica's treasures. The Japanese TV crew were
delighted by the rainbow arching over a glacier, greeting
our arrival.
Gradually, we all emerged to the realisation that we were finally here, in Antarctica. The South Shetland Islands emerged from the mist and then onward to King George Island - our destination for the next two days.
The harsh wind from the glaciers reminded us that we needed to dress appropriately for the elements. The anchor went down at noon just out from the Russian and Chilean bases. After some briefings about how we should behave ashore, two boatloads of us departed. Our destination for the day was the Russian base of Bellingshausen.
Throughout Greenpeace's history in Antarctica we have monitored the environmental impact of the numerous research bases here. The Russian base has always been a problem and today we found little sign of improvement. Given the dire economic situation in Russia it is not surprising that funds are not reaching Antarctica, but the sight of polluted water entering this pristine environment was still sobering.
Two German scientists working at the Russian base offered to escort us to a nearby glacier which they had found to be in retreat. They have noted that in the past 12 years the Collins Ice Cap - which is 600 metres high - has declined by 30 per cent. We walked on a beach which was once covered in ice at this time of year. Dr Hans Ulrich Peter, who accompanied us, said he believed the retreat was due to climate change.